Buying a suit online sounds risky until you understand how suit sizing actually works. The truth is, most men already know their approximate size — they just don't know how to translate that into a suit that fits properly off the rack. This guide covers everything: how to measure, what each measurement means, and how to tell whether a suit needs alterations or a return.
Understanding Suit Sizing
Suit sizing is based on chest measurement. When you see "42R" on a suit, that means a 42-inch chest in a regular length. The letter indicates your height range:
| Code | Height Range | Jacket Length |
|---|---|---|
| S (Short) | 5'5" – 5'8" | Shorter body and sleeves |
| R (Regular) | 5'8" – 6'0" | Standard proportions |
| L (Long) | 6'0" – 6'3" | Longer body and sleeves |
Our range covers chest sizes 34 through 50, each available in S, R, and L. We also offer an extra-slim cut (1.5 inches narrower in the torso) and an athletic cut (2 inches wider in the shoulders with a sharper waist taper).
How to Measure Yourself
You'll need a flexible tape measure and, ideally, someone to help. Measure over a thin shirt, not a bulky jumper, and keep the tape snug but not tight.
Chest
Wrap the tape around the fullest part of your chest, just under the armpits, keeping it level across the back. Let your arms hang naturally. This is your jacket size number.
Waist
Measure at your natural waistline — roughly where your trousers would sit if you weren't sucking in. For suit trousers, this is typically 1-2 inches above where you wear jeans.
Shoulder Width
Measure from the outer edge of one shoulder bone to the other, across the back. The tape should follow the curve of your shoulders, not cut across in a straight line.
Sleeve Length
Bend your elbow slightly. Measure from the top of the shoulder (where the seam would sit) down to where you'd want the cuff to end — typically about 1 inch past the wrist bone.
Trouser Inseam
Measure from the crotch seam of a well-fitting pair of trousers straight down to the bottom of the leg. Or measure from your inner thigh to the floor and subtract half an inch.
Our Three Cuts Explained
Slim Fit (Standard)
Our default cut. Tapered through the chest and waist with a clean, modern line. Not tight — you should be able to button the jacket without pulling and sit down without the chest straining. This fits most men well, especially those with a proportional build.
Extra-Slim Fit
1.5 inches narrower in the torso than our standard slim. Designed for leaner frames. If you typically buy the smallest size in most brands and it's still loose through the body, this is your cut.
Athletic Fit
2 inches wider in the shoulders and upper chest, with a more aggressive taper to the waist. Built for men who train — broader shoulders, larger arms, narrower waist. The trousers have a slightly roomier thigh with the same tapered leg.
Signs of a Good Fit
- Shoulders: The seam sits exactly at the edge of your shoulder bone. Not hanging off, not riding up onto the shoulder.
- Chest: You can slide a flat hand between the lapel and your chest when buttoned. If you can fit a fist, it's too big.
- Jacket length: The hem falls roughly at the base of your thumb when your arms hang straight. Another test: it should just cover your rear.
- Sleeves: About half an inch of shirt cuff should be visible below the jacket sleeve.
- Trouser break: One clean fold where the trouser meets the shoe. No bunching, no stacking. For a more modern look, a slight crop with no break works too.
- Collar gap: The jacket collar should sit flat against your shirt collar with no gap. If it's pulling away, the jacket needs adjustment.
Signs of a Bad Fit
- X-shaped creases across the button: The jacket is too tight in the chest or waist.
- Horizontal creases below the collar: The jacket is too big in the shoulders or the posture doesn't match the cut.
- Sleeves covering your hands: Either the size is too long or you need a Short length.
- Trouser seat bagging: The rise is too long for your body. Consider a different cut or get the seat taken in.
- Jacket pulling open when buttoned: The chest is too small. Size up and have the waist taken in.
What Can (and Can't) Be Altered
A good tailor can fix a lot, but not everything:
| Alteration | Difficulty | Included Free? |
|---|---|---|
| Trouser length | Simple | Yes |
| Sleeve length | Simple | Yes |
| Waist (in or out) | Simple | Yes |
| Trouser taper | Moderate | No ($30-50) |
| Jacket body taper | Moderate | No ($40-60) |
| Shoulders | Difficult/expensive | No — better to size correctly |
The key takeaway: always buy for your shoulders first. Shoulders are the one thing that's nearly impossible to alter well. Everything else can be adjusted.
"The difference between a $400 suit that looks like a $400 suit and a $400 suit that looks like a $1,200 suit is almost always $50 worth of alterations."
Still Unsure?
Email us your measurements and a photo, and we'll recommend a size and cut. We do this dozens of times a week and we're happy to help. Reach us at [email protected].
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